Yes, big trouble--if it's grain or oilseed-based organic, such as the dairy, poultry and cereals goods segments, which happen to have been among the fastest growing (and more prosperous) markets in the industry.
As I told Andy Martin for his April 18 piece (with Kim Severson) on organic in the NYT ("Sticker Shock in the Organic Aisles"), we could be seeing a contraction in the organic industry for the fist time in over a decade as a result of an acute shortage, and extremely high prices, for organic corn, small grains, and soybeans.
An insider in the organic grain and oilseed trade told me last week we're now importing upwards of 40 percent of our organic soybeans from China, along with a good deal of our organic livestock meal. Food companies are wondering if they should discontinue product lines not just because commodity inputs are pricing them out of the market, but because they just can't find the grains and oilseeds they need.
The pressure on organic was a major theme of my talk last Tuesday at Canlis, a fantastic restaurant in Seattle, at a wonderful evening event sponsored by our friends at Organic Valley Family of Farms.
As I've been noting the past year, the organic grain and oilseed industry in this country was shockingly small before the run up in prices for ag commodities. How small? Probably about one- or two-tenths of one percent of grain and oilseed acreage is certified organic. Bear in mind, for the organic industry as a whole, we're looking at about 4 million certified acres for crops and livestock out of about 800 million acres nationally--or about one-half of one percent.
Now the organic grain/oilseed base is probably shrinking further in both absolute and percentage terms. This same trader told me several big organic grain growers for the company shifted, with regret, to conventional recently, drawn by the higher profits. Recruitment of conventional grain farmers to go organic has become essentially impossible.
What's more, organic growers had hoped that if land now in the federal Conservation Reserve Program were to come back into crop use, it could provide a ready source of acreage for expansion of organic grain and oilseed production. Proper management that avoided chemical weed control in the last three years of the 10-year contracts would make CRP ground eligible immediately for organic certification, without the need for conventional farmers to absorb the income hit common during the 3-year transition to higher organic prices.
But land coming out of CRP now is going into conventional production instead.
The problem in the grain belt isn't big organic. It's no organic. Or almost no organic.
Martin and Severson reported the same phenomenon at work with dairy farmers (and I've spoken to organic dairy farmers who've told me the same thing):
Doug Hartkopf, a dairy farmer in Albion, Me., said the high feed costs forced him to stop farming organically in December.
“Instead of paying $3,000 a month, I was paying $7,000,” he said. “It was a very tough decision. It was something we had to do.”
In all, at least 25 dairy farmers in the Northeast have retired early or stopped farming organically in the last six months, said Ed Maltby, executive director of the Northeast Organic Dairy Producers Alliance. He predicted that the shifts would continue unless farmers received a price increase of about 25 percent from milk processors.
The high grain prices are squeezing more than just organic dairy farmers.
“In the last three months or four months, everyone along the chain in organic food is not making their margins,” said Bob Eberly, president of Eberly Poultry in Stevens, Pa. The cost of raising poultry has increased 16 percent in the last six months, but he said his prices had increased only 7 percent.
“In the next month or so, our customers are going to see a significant price increase,” he said. “We just have to do it.”
And let's hope consumers stick with organic through the sticker shock. I think it's worth it--but as my friend Phil Landrigan, an organic enthusiast, once said, "Organic is private school for food." Great if you can find it, great if you can afford it. But the ranks of those who can't find or afford it will be expanding in the months ahead.
Organic has long seemed isolated from the rest of agriculture by virtue of its distinctive practices and the higher price structure for organics at every level. Now we see the sector is not so isolated from forces like the ethanol boom, and that, in fact, organic in this country is highly vulnerable to the food price conditions we now face.
Also apparent is the cost of Congress' consistent failure, repeated again in the 2008 farm bill, to dramatically increase investments in the organic research, development, and marketing infrastructure needed to grow the sector. For all the potency of its cultural and commercial imprint, at its current scale organic still occupies a small fraction of the U.S. agricultural landscape, still contributes modestly to our public health.
Our fear at EWG is that this small, hopeful part of the U.S. food and agriculture system may get smaller over the next few years. That's not the direction organic should be headed in.